Empty and Free

Walk up and over the dunes and what do you see? A surfer girl gliding alone on a wave of energy, manifested this day as salt water. She trims and glides and arrives on the sand, arms raised above her head like a ballet dancer, but she doesn’t dance on land.

surfergirl riding wave

So you paddle out with your log, watching one footers peel across the bay. It’s nothing much, but enough for today.

surfer with longboard

Water, if you watch it closely, tells its own stories. Tales of war and peace, love and pain. It dances and fizzles and whispers things to those who care to listen.

ocean wave

But you ride on, because your focus is linear. One stream of data at a time, less while riding a wave. For a moment you hit flow state awareness and it all comes together, the water, the sun, the land… it’s all there. And you glide toward the shore, empty and free.

blur motion surfer

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